Baja California is a land of seemingly endless attractions and points of interest. 

On May 14-18, Dave Wilcher and David Kier traveled to see several sites in the region of San Felipe to Bahía de los Angeles. These are historic or geological sites, most I have visited in the past. Dave wants to see them and experience the thrill of what Baja has to offer. The following photos are of locations we visited, some with old vs new photos to compare. LeMoine Fuller, of the San Felipe South Campos (and Punta Banda) communities joined us. This excursion was sponsored by Baja Bound Insurance and serves as a sampling of reasons to travel the peninsula, in search of fun and adventure.

South on Mex. #5, south from San Felipe (Km. 0)

Mexico Highway #5 at Km. 99 Viewpoint. The Islas Encantadas, beginning with El Huerfanito.

San Judas

Before attempting to see the first site on our itinerary, Agua del Mezquitito, we revisited the onyx mine of San Judas, just a mile north, exit west from Km. 118.5. Dave and I first visited the mine on our May 2025 expedition. This was LeMoine’s first visit to San Judas.

Onyx is a colorful rock with many artistic uses. Commercial mining came to an end at some mines in the late 1950s with plastics replacing the naturally colored stone. Drilling holes is how blocks were extracted.

Dave’s 4×4 Toyota Tundra was the perfect vehicle and had zero mechanical issues… Oh, what a feeling!


Agua del Mezquitito

A water spring very close to Mex. #5 that has been visited for decades, maybe centuries.  GPS: 29.9860°, -114.5693°. I was first here in 1967 (age 10) and the area was filled with quail! I returned again in 1974 and 2002. That 2002 return visit revealed a rancher had used tires to make a corral around it. This spring was also a point of reference for seekers of the Lost Mission of Santa Isabel! It is located just over ½ mile up the little arroyo from where the highway crosses it. The drive to it now, uses some of the older, dirt highway that is accessed from the new paved highway, at about Km. 120.5. The drive is 0.9 mile to spring. First, go northwest 0.6 mile to the arroyo crossing, there you turn west into the arroyo. Go the remaining 0.3 mi, to the spring. The quail were still in attendance!

A November 1958 photo of Andy Anderson at Agua del Mezquitito taken by Howard Gulick.
May 2026 photo by David Kier
April 1974 photo of David Kier at Agua del Mezquitito, age16.  
May 2026, I return! It was once again in its natural state.  However, I had aged considerably, now 68!

The spring is just 0.9 mile northwest of the highway, from approx. Km. 120.5.


Km. 99 viewpoint is just north of El Huerfanito and San Judas (Km. 118.5) and Agua del Mezquitito (Km. 120+) are just south of Okie Landing.

A 1905 hand-drawn map showing the onyx mine and Agua del Mezquitito spring

‘Mill de San Francisquito’ would be known in later years as Molino de Lacy.

Mission-era warehouse, Alfonsina’s, and ‘soda’ (onyx) spring are included on this map.

Mission-era warehouse on Gonzaga Bay

Built during the Franciscan period for the missions of San Fernando and up into Alta California, in order to bring in cargo and people. GPS: 29.8153, -114.4101. The trail (ordered by Padre President Junípero Serra) goes west to meet the Camino Real about 3 miles northwest of Mission Santa María.

Warehouse access is to the left/ north, 0.8 mi. from gas station, off of Alfonsina’s road. This is just before the lagoon crossing, after which the road turns north to pass the beach homes. Then it is 1.6 miles northwest to the ruin. We enjoyed breakfast at Alfonsina’s, first (see below).

Photos by Howard Gulick in 1958-1959

Junípero Serra’s cargo trail goes between the warehouse to the Camino Real, it is also known as the Antelope Spring Trail. It passes by a spring where Serra probably saw bighorn sheep, calling them ‘antelope’. GPS here is near 29.8236, -114.4248.

November 2002 photo by David Kier

Dr. Eric Ritter’s paper (photos and details): https://vivabaja.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/GONZAGA-2-EXCAVATIONS.pdf


2026 Photos



Alfonsina’s Resort

Alfonsina’s got its beginning under the name Crowe’s Camp, named for the American who began the building here in the late 1950s. It has natural landing strip for flying in, when the high tide isn’t covering it. The strip is now closed, with pilots using the big runway at Rancho Grande, just south. Access through a manned security gate, next to the gas station, Km. 147+, 2-miles in.

The two-story hotel, roadside.
The newer 3-story hotel add-on.

The Bay side of the hotel:

That is Punta Final in the distance. This southern, larger bay is the Ensenada de San Francisquito, but most also call it ‘Gonzaga Bay’ the north bay’s name. The government topo map switched the two bay names, in error.

The restaurant, outdoor:

Indoor:

The north side of Alfonsina’s is Bahía San Luis Gonzaga, a Spanish port of the 1700s.

Across the bay is Papa Fernandez’ Resort, a fishing camp started in the late 1950s.
The mission-era warehouse is midway between Alfonsina’s and Papa Fernandez’. In the right-background here.
The gas station at the junction with the road to Alfonsina’s, east side of highway, Km. 147+. That’s 96 miles from gas in San Felipe. Km. 0 is 10 kms. south of San Felipe, where you leave the airport road.


Rancho Grande is a well-stocked market and office for camping at their beach palapas.

Gonzaga Bay’s Onyx-Salt Springs or ‘Mineral Glacier’

GPS: 29.7824, -114.4472   (2-1/2 miles from Km. 147/ Rancho Grande Market)

First published in the January 1959 Desert Magazine: ‘Trail to a Baja Salt Spring

November 2002
May 2026
November 2002 (29.7806, -114.4483)
May 2026
My son, Chris, November 2002
May 2026
A baby elephant tree.
Chunks of onyx lay about, but much less than I saw in 2002. I guess the smaller ones grew legs!
My map from 2002 shows the roads west of Rancho Grande of 0.5 and 1.4 miles to the salt/ soda spring road (springs not mentioned on the 2002 map)


Coco’s Corner

Read and see more about this colorful man and his desert oasis (founded in 1987): https://vivabaja.com/coco/

Grave behind Coco’s New Corner… is this Coco’s resting spot ? The old Coco’s Corner (1987-2021) is 4 miles south, on the older, unpaved Mex 5 route. The new highway bypassed the corner and is why Coco moved north to be along it, in April 2021.

Coco’s (old or original) Corner, in 2026. GPS: 29°31.01′, -114°17.46′

In July 2001, at the same doorway in the above photo:

L to R: David Kier, Coco, Sarah Kier, David Eidell, Miguelito Humfreville.



Calamajué

Mission GPS: 29.4211°, -114.1951°. Exit Mex. #5 at Km. 179.5 (New Coco’s Corner), go east & south 17 miles. An alternative route goes south to the old Coco’s Corner, then east turn.

Calamajué (say: “cala-ma-WAY”) was the Native name for this area, modified into Spanish pronunciation, and used to identify the site of the 17th Jesuit California mission in 1766. A year-round stream flows out the nearby canyon and sinks into the sand near the mission, which is located on a bench above the arroyo floor, across from where the auto road drops to it. Next to the road just before this drop was a gold ore mill from around 1905. Dick Daggett was the miner behind the project per the 1910 book by Arthur North, ‘Camp and Camino in Lower California

The mission lasted only 7 months here because the water was so full of mineral salts, crops refused to grow. The mission moved 30 miles north and west to a canyon with ample running fresh water and became known as Santa María de los Angeles.

Calamajué can also be reached from the original Coco’s Corner by traveling east for 6.3 miles towards Puerto Calamajué, then taking the right fork that heads straight south 7 miles to the mill and mission sites. That was our route this trip.

Not listed on this map, the old Coco’s Corner was at the junction on the unpaved road, east of the highway between K179 and K190.
The El Camino Real mission road crosses the dirt road here, 29°32′34.2″N, 114°16′26.6″W, northeast of Coco’s (old) Corner. This view is to the south. No sign of the trail here, but a hike south to where the canyon narrows will show mission-era road building according to Camino Real Baja map information.
The auto road south to Calamajué dates to the1950s. It was the main gulf side route before 1983.
The Molino de Calamajué gold ore mill. Worked in the early 1900s by Dick Daggett. The mission site is across the wide arroyo from here.

2026 finds only a few changes since my first time here, mostly with me growing old!

Going back 59 years to my first visit here (in 1967, age 9-1/2)…

The gold mill in 1957, photo from Howard Gulick.
Gold mill in 2026, as seen from the mission.
Just past the gold mill and this canyon view, the auto road drops steeply to the arroyo bottom. Tracks to the mission turn left in the center of the arroyo.

Climbing up to the mission terrace:

Misión de Calamajué, founded in October 1766 as the 17th California mission, and relocated in May 1767 some 30 miles to Santa María de los Angeles.

The longest (rectangular) outline was the church. The outline is all the remains of the adobe brick walls.

View across the arroyo to the auto road downgrade, just past the gold mill site.
Other mounds represent addition mission buildings, such as housing and supply warehouse. Stone corrals are also present.

An elevated view.

Once a mission history information sign from the 1970s.
2022 drone photo of the mission complex by Victor Du, showing 4 to 5 adobe buildings, plus  stone corrals.
1999 Site Plan, from Edward Vernon’s 2002 book ‘Las Misiones Antiguas …’.
The mission church in 1957, Howard Gulick photo. See more photos here: https://vivabaja.com/calamajue/
Dave shows us the ‘sticker board’ in Arroyo Calamajué, now featuring Baja Bound and Toyotas in Baja stickers.

Driving south into Calamajué Canyon, the road and the creek are one:

Not too far in the canyon, a white mineral bench is visible, looking very similar to the onyx springs at Gonzaga Bay.

Lots of dripping water coming off the mineral shelf.

 

We eventually climb out of the arroyo and cross the desert plain with its many boojum trees (cirios).

One pair of the tall cactus, I named ‘dancing boojums’ back in 2012:

In 2026, the ‘left’ partner is gone and the other’s ‘arm’ is broken:

The desert gardens of Baja California must rate as some of the most incredible in the world!

Continues on page 2:

There see Bahía de los Angeles, Las Flores, Montevideo, San Borja, Santa Rosalillita, Parador Punta Prieta, and more!


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